10 cose che (forse) non sai su Valentino

Ciao lettori di The jungle of Alis!

Da oggi ho deciso di introdurre questa nuova rubrica, su curiosità riguardo a stilisti, brand o più in generale su aspetti della moda. Come non iniziare con uno dei miei stilisti preferiti? Valentino ha segnato la mia infanzia con i suoi abiti, sicuramente devo anche a lui la mia passione per la moda e rimane sempre una fonte di ispirazione per me quando disegno i miei figurini. Ma iniziamo con le 10 curiosità su questo magnifico e intramontabile stilista.

  1. Il suo nome completo è Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani ed è nato l’11 Maggio 1932 a Voghera, in provincia di Milano.
  2. Studia all’istituto di figurinismo di moda Santa Marta di Milano, dopo di che si trasferisce a Parigi dove continua gli studi alla prestigiosa Chambre syndacal de la Haute Couture. Proprio a Parigi inizia a lavorare prima per Jean Dessès e poi per Guy Laroche, fino al 1959 quando apre a Roma la sua prima boutique in via Condotti.
  3. Valentino poco dopo ebbe problemi finanziari ed entrò nella società il suo compagno Giancarlo Giammetti che riuscì a risollevare l’azienda.

4. Il suo grande successo arrivò nel 1962, quando partecipò alle sfilate fiorentine di Palazzo Pitti. Essendo il più giovane, gli venne concesso di presentare la sua collezione solo l’ultimo giorno e all’ultima ora, ma nonostante questo il trionfo fu talmente grande che i buyers americani si litigarono i vestiti dello stilista, e proprio loro lo soprannominarono The Chic. Giancarlo Giammetti ricorda quel giorno dicendo “Il successo fu così grande che passammo tutta la notte a scrivere gli ordini”. Da quella sfilata Valentino non si è più fermato.

5. Sono tante le caratteristiche che identificano lo stile Valentino, l’utilizzo di esclusivi tessuti, il lusso autentico, la tecnica sartoriale precisa e minuziosa e i continui riferimenti al mondo dell’arte. Ma quella più celebre è l’utilizzo di una precisa tonalità di rosso, che poi prenderà il nome di Rosso Valentino, e come nasce? Si dice che Valentino si innamorò di questa cromia durante una serata al Teatro dell’opera di Barcellona, quando vide sul palcoscenico dei costumi rossi che fecero sembrare le donne che li indossavano dei gerani. Sarà lo stesso stilista a dichiarare “Il rosso è un colore che mi porto dietro dall’infanzia. Ha una tale vitalità e un tale fascino che amo vederlo non soltanto sugli abiti, ma anche nelle case, nei fiori, negli oggetti. È il mio portafortuna. Penso che una donna vestita di rosso, soprattutto di sera, sia meravigliosa. È, tra la folla, la perfetta immagine dell’eroina.”

6. A Valentino va anche il primato e vanto, di aver vestito ben otto attrici premiate alla cerimonia degli Oscar, tra cui Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor, Jane Fonda, Julia Roberts e Cate Blanchett.

7. Quando Valentino Garavani nel 1960 apri la sua prima Boutique, esisteva già un diverso stilista che operava in Italia dal 1952, appunto Mario Valentino, che produceva e commercializzava inizialmente calzature e poi anche pelletteria con il nome Mario Valentino. A causa della somiglianza dei nomi, sin dall’inizio le due aziende hanno avuto problemi di confusione dei consumatori, esistenti ancora oggi, e ciò le aveva spinte a stipulare un accordo di coesistenza nel 1979. In base a tale accordo Mario Valentino era autorizzato a registrare e utilizzare all’interno dei prodotti di pelletteria il nome completo Mario Valentino, o M.Valentino, o Valentino, o le lettere MV o solamente V, mentre all’interno e sulla confezione di tutti i prodotti in pelle, similpelle o altro materiale, doveva essere riportato il nome Mario Valentino per esteso. Mentre Valentino Garavani, rispetto ai prodotti di pelletteria, poteva utilizzare la lettera V soltanto in una specifica forma, ovvero con simbolo specifico e caratterizzante noto alle parti, che risultava allegato alla scrittura. Tale accordo servì al suo scopo pacificatore per quasi quattro decenni, fino alla rottura avvenuta pochi anni fa, quando Mario Valentino cita in giudizio Valentino Garavani. Da quel giorno si sono fatti causa più volte.

8. Con festeggiamenti durati tre giorni a Roma, tra il 6 e l‘8 Luglio 2007, Valentino dice addio al mondo della moda dopo la leggendaria sfilata Haute Couture a Gennaio 2008 al Musée Rodin di Parigi. Gli succede per un brevissimo periodo Alessandra Facchinetti fino a che a fine 2008 vengono nominati direttori creativi Maria Grazia Chiuri e Pierpaolo Piccioli, già da dieci anni all’interno della maison, agli accessori. I due rimangono insieme fino al 2016 quando la Chiuri abbandona il ruolo per trasferirsi a casa Dior, e Piccioli prende a piene mani il ruolo prima diviso in due. Oggi Valentino Garavani continua a lavorare su commissione, soprattutto disegnando costumi per una sua grande passione, l’opera.

9. C’è un libro, Valentino Garavani. Una grande storia italiana, edito da Taschen, con 738 pagine e il suo prezzo è di 1500 euro. 2000 copie sono autografate dallo stilista e le prime 100 copie hanno 4 stampe originali autografate. Nel 2011 ha inaugurato sul web il Valentino Garavani Virtual Museum, un’esposizione virtuale di bozzetti e documenti inediti che comprende i cinquanta anni di lavoro dello stilista.

10. Nel 2012 la maison è stata rilevata dalla Mayhoola for Investment, società del Qatar facente capo allo sceicco Hamadbin Kahifa.

Finiamo qui con le curiosità su questo leggendario stilista. Spero che il nuovo articolo vi sia piaciuto e abbiate scoperto delle cose nuove, fatemi sapere nei commenti se volete che parli di uno specifico stilista o brand. Grazie per aver letto The jungle of Alis! 🤍📄

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